travel – Two Wild Tides

St. Pierre and Miquelon: L’Île-aux-Marins

August 19, 2019 | Leave a Comment

St. Pierre & Miquelon is a fascinating place. It is a slice of France off the continent of North America. More precisely, it is an archipelago (a group of islands), about 20 km off the southern coast of Newfoundland. St. Pierre is the smaller, more densely populated island, while Miquelon and Langlade are larger, more sparsely populated islands. St. Pierre and Miquelon can be reached by plane or ferry. When you arrive on the islands, particularly if you’re coming from Newfoundland, it won’t look that different. The architecture is similar and the rocky, jagged coastline is identical.

Part of the archipelago is L’Île-aux-Marins. Roughly translated to Mariner’s Island, L’Île-aux-Marins is a tiny island that was once inhabited by over 600 people. Today, the only inhabitants left are people with summer homes and cabins who visit the island from St. Pierre or elsewhere. On the island, you’ll find the immaculate remains of this community which have been transformed into interactive exhibits where visitors can roam free in and out of the buildings. It’ll honestly blow you away. It is so worth the trip and I highly recommend grabbing the little ferry out to the island if you ever find yourself in St. Pierre.

The small ferry leaves from St. Pierre (right next to the ferry terminal) several times per day and only costs a couple of dollars. Get there about half hour early to get yourself at the front of the line as sometimes they have to make two trips across if there are a lot of people.

When the ferry docks, you’ll see several buildings and paths. My suggestion is to choose a path that intrigues you and start walking. It’s a small island so you won’t miss anything and you won’t get lost. When standing on the wharf facing the island, to the right is the majority of the community that is now turned into heritage exhibits; to the left is mostly private summer homes and cabins, but there are a couple of sights down there you won’t want to miss, such as an old store house with an excellent collection of antiques and the remains of the shipwrecked Transpacific.

This place is honestly so fascinating. It was a commune until 1945 and had virtually no population by 1965. Now, it is essentially a ghost town that is FREE for you to wander. No worries of trespassing or getting caught. They want you to stroll the island, explore the buildings, and learn about the history. Stop and read the interpretive signs because they are chalked full of information and random facts that will surprise you.

The School / Archipélitude Museum

The Church — This was my favourite part. It was so eerie and desolate. We were blown away by the incredible European architecture and intricate religious items plopped on this tiny, ragged island in the North Atlantic Ocean. It was so unexpected.

The Cemetery

The Shop / Fisherman’s Home

The Jézéquel House is an old home that has been transformed into a sweet café with desserts and hot and cold drinks. Unfortunately we didn’t get to enjoy any sweets as we had to catch the ferry. Hopefully you’ll have more time to check it out!

On Airbnb or the St. Pierre tourism website, you can also find overnight accommodations on L’Île-aux-Marins in one of two old homes. We wish we had known this was an option before we planned our trip because staying on L’Île-aux-Marins would be such a cool experience! Let us know if you decide to stay out there all night– we’d love to hear your story.

Have you been to L’Île-aux-Marins? Did you like it? Let us know your thoughts in the comments or by reaching out on social media, @twowildtides! We love hearing from our awesome readers.

The Trek of My Life: Day 3

August 8, 2019 | 1 Comment

We started hiking this morning before sunrise as usual. The cold Peruvian winter air in the mountains is a very real thing. Those early mornings before the sun rose consisted of coca tea and many layers of clothing.

Today marked our entrance into the jungle which provided us with hot temperatures, a lot of sunshine and a few drops of rain. The scenery was beautiful and I could feel the oxygen rushing into my lungs as we quickly became surrounded by the lush jungle. The scenery was much different to the previous day which consisted mostly of rocks, snow, ice and very little plant life. Today, however, the plants and trees were abundant. I felt much better.

Day 3 was our shortest day of trekking by far as we made it to basecamp before lunch. Our muscles were in full aching mode by now and the raw blisters scattered over my feet made me feel like Reese Witherspoon in Wild. We were truly pushing ourselves to our limits. Our group collectively agreed that you get to this point where it’s all in your head. It’s a complete mind game and it’s all about putting one foot in front of the other no matter how tired, sore, or hungry you get. It’s all about continuing to move forward. This day marked the half way point of our trek. The first thing we all did upon arrival to basecamp was take off our hiking boots, and sit in the grass, soaking up the luscious sunshine.

After lunch we were in for a treat. It was hot spring day! There was an option to head into the nearest town (by van, thank god) to visit the local hot springs. We were all over that! My boyfriend and I were so excited to have a chance to rest our muscles and treat our bodies to some well deserved down time. When we arrived there were only a handful of people there. After a quick cold shower, we headed for the pools. There were a couple warm pools and one hot one. We alternated back and forth and enjoyed the mountainous scenery. We stayed in those pools for a few hours and when we got out we definitely noticed a difference. It really helped my knees and gave them a little break.

On our way back from the hot springs, our van broke down and our guide was on the hunt for some Inca tequila for us to try that evening. After driving on the steep cliff sides, through a couple of streams and down the narrow roads we made it back to basecamp. We were always eager to unwind after a long day of hiking and the Inca tequila really helped. It was basically moonshine and we were told the best way to drink it was to add it to your hot tea with a bit of sugar. Sure enough, it was delicious. After dinner this evening we all socialized around the table and later on at a campfire. And then it was bedtime.

Stay tuned for Day 4.

St. Pierre & Miquelon: Know Before You Go

August 5, 2019 | Leave a Comment

First, let’s chat about the practical stuff. The regular currency in St. Pierre & Miquelon is the Euro, however, CAD and USD are accepted pretty much everywhere, and Canadian debit and credit cards work for the most part, although you’ll want to double-check with your bank. The only place I found that did not accept currency other than Euros was the ferry. You need Euros if you want a snack on the way there or back! Prices in St. Pierre & Miquelon are very reasonable, despite the poor exchange rates right now. Expect to spend what you might in any other major Canadian city on hotels and meals. There is no Canadian cell coverage in St. Pierre & Miquelon that I know of, however, near the coast, you can pick up a weak signal from major towers such as Bell and Telus. There are a lot of hubs for free wifi, so gaining internet access shouldn’t be difficult. Finally, you will need a European travel adapter for outlets and plug-ins.

Next, let’s cover the meal times. You can enjoy a light breakfast, complete with decadent French pastries, at many restaurants and hotels. There are a few places that offer an American breakfast (bacon and eggs) and some crêperies if you’re craving something sweet in the morning. This information is hard to find online, but hotel staff are very knowledgeable and mostly bilingual and can point you in the right direction. Lunch is a whole other story. Almost every shop and restaurant in St. Pierre closes from 12:00-2:00, so there aren’t many places for lunch! UPDATE: A lovely reader from St. Pierre informed that there are restaurants opened during lunch hour. Yay! The whole time we were there, however, we ate lunch at Les Delices de Joséphine, which is open all day long and serves delicious sandwiches and quiches, as well as yummy desserts. You could also stop by a grocery store and keep food in your hotel room for lunchtime. We didn’t know we could go anywhere else. For supper, there are so many fine restaurants offering traditional, delectable French cuisine. My favourite restaurants for supper were Le Feu de Braise and the Crêperie (which offers far more than crêpes!), but keep in mind you’ll need reservations! Your hotel receptionist can help with that.

Now, we let’s discuss where to stay and how to get there. We stayed at the newest hotel in St. Pierre, the Hotel Jacques Cartier. It was clean, comfortable, and modern. Hotel rooms came with a coffee maker, an amazing rainfall shower, a minibar, huge windows, and extremely comfy beds. Breakfast is included in your stay and the staff were very helpful for booking tours and reservations. I highly recommend this hotel and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. You can get to St. Pierre by air or sea. The ferry leaves from Fortune, NL, which is along Newfoundland’s southern coast and is about 4-6 hours from St. John’s by car. Along the way, you can grab lunch at the Irving Big Stop in Goobies, get a photo by the moose, check out antique cars at Vernon’s, and catch glimpses of amazing NL coastline. You have to book the ferry in advance and it is a passenger-only ferry, but don’t worry, you won’t need your car in St. Pierre. You can also get to St. Pierre by air, and they have a gorgeous airport for such a small place. Travel between St. Pierre and the larger island, Miquelon, is also by ferry or plane.

Hotel Jacques Cartier
Hotel Jacques Cartier
Hotel Jacques Cartier

The weather in St. Pierre & Miquelon is similar to that of Newfoundland: unpredictable. It is an island floating in the North Atlantic, after all, so expect fog, wind, and rain. However, St. Pierre is full of surprises, and although the forecast called for rain and fog during our visit, we ended up with 25-degree weather and a sunburn! Prepare for both, especially in the summer.

The same view within 24 hours.
The same view within 24 hours.

Finally, I suggest you grab the little wallet-sized map from the ferry or ferry terminal. It is super handy and has so much information about where to eat, where to stay, and what historical sights to see. The map is easy to read when navigating by foot. And most importantly- it is free.

Please let me know if you have any more questions about visiting St. Pierre & Miquelon! I am happy to help and update this article as I hear from readers. We really appreciate hearing from you and we are so grateful for your support! Comment, email info@twowildtides.com, or reach out on social media @twowildtides.

happy travels,
char

The Trek of My Life: Day 2

August 1, 2019 | Leave a Comment

I woke up the next morning still feeling ill but slightly better. I was nervous about the day ahead and worried that my body would give out on me. Altitude sickness is a tricky thing because you never know how it’s going to affect you. Some people don’t experience it at all (the lucky ones) and some get hit hard. It doesn’t matter how fit you are, your age, stature etc. It just hits some people much harder than others.

I was determined to keep going. After speaking with the guide we decided that I would take a horse for a couple hours that morning up the extremely steep terrain and then hike the rest of the day. The morning of day 2 is known as one of the hardest parts of the trek as you’re going through the Salkantay pass. I was upset that I couldn’t hike it but knew after throwing up the night before I needed to take it easy. Mind you, being on a horse, on the edge of a cliff, on ice ridden paths wasn’t exactly super calming. However, I was grateful that the option was there so that I could give my body a chance to breathe. Plus, our guide gave me an electrolyte mixture for my water which resulted in me basically drinking salt water all day (but it helped!).

Once we arrived on the top, the view was jaw-dropping. The snow capped Salkantay mountain right there in front of our eyes. It was a pretty great moment making it to the top. Everyone was eager to have a bite to eat, rest and drink some water. I was still not feeling great but doing my best to hang in there and prepare for the hike down. As we sat on the top of the mountain our guide spoke to us about the philosophy of the Incan people and how much simpler life is in the mountains. He had us all go around and list some things that we are thankful for. It was a special moment and a humbling one. Among my boyfriend and I’s list included our families, friends, our health, and our ability to visit new places and explore new cultures. We’re grateful to have been born into a world of opportunity and grateful to be Canadian. I also threw in a special shout out to pad thai and tequila (because they’re important food groups).

A little blurry but a shot of the landscape. Salkantay Mountain.

We hiked on a downward incline for the rest of the day. I found going down almost harder then going up simply because it was painful on the joints. By the end of day 2 I think we all had some knee pain kicking in. We arrived at basecamp which consisted of small raised tents. Everyone was super excited for the use of a shower that night. I was able to eat dinner that night which was my first meal in over a day. I started to feel better that evening and that was the biggest relief.

The group of 10 hikers that made up our group originated from Canada, England and the United States. We were all between 22-34. After hiking 2 full days we started to become quite close. You see when you’re a sweaty, sore, mess in the middle of the Andes you have no choice but to become friends. We had an awesome group of people with unique backgrounds all determined to complete this trek together. I’m grateful for the new friends we made along the way and that our group became so close on the trek.

Stay tuned for Day 3.

The Trek of My Life: Day 1

July 29, 2019 | 2 Comments

I have been back on Canadian soil for the better part of a week. It always feels nice to come home after an adventure. To throw that back pack down on the floor and curl up in my bed. However, this time curling up in that bed felt even better because I had just finished hiking roughly 100km in the Andes.

Rewind a couple of weeks…

My boyfriend and I stood outside in the cold hours of the morning, with our packs on and hiking boots tied waiting to be picked up for the trek of our lives. Around 3am, the van pulled up; tired eyed we jumped in. We were simultaneously exhausted, excited and eager for the journey that lied ahead. After about a two hour drive and gobbling down a protein bar it was time to start hiking.

The beginning of the trail was steep, all uphill and the altitude definitely weighed you down as you tried to get a full breath. We were already surrounded my mountains, I practically had to pinch myself it was so stunning. Despite the physical exertion and limited oxygen we were all in awe of the view. We hiked for a number of hours that day, our group of 10 getting to know each other and arrived at basecamp just before lunch.

Basecamp on the first night was absolutely incredible. We stayed in glass domes that were tucked in the valley of the mountains. After lunch there was an optional hike to Humantay Lake – which we all jumped on! The hike was intense, extremely challenging and forced you to focus on your breath. I was very grateful for all of my vocal training from Acting school in that moment. The optional hike was straight up the mountain but so worth it! Upon arrival at the lake, you immediately forgot about the struggle you just experienced for the past 90 minutes. The sun glistened over the turquoise water before slowly setting behind the mountain. It was beautiful. It also felt amazing to sit down for a few minutes (haha!).

This was taken on the hike up to Humantay Lake. Note the small tents in the bottom right hand corner – that was our basecamp.

The moment we realized “What did we get ourselves into?!” but were loving it at the same time!

After arriving back at basecamp from the lake we were all tired and hungry. We had a quick snack and got ready for supper. This is when everything switched for me in a split second. All of a sudden I felt so ill. My evening went downhill fast as I became dizzy, had a piercing headache, and loss of appetite. I thought – oh no, here we go: altitude sickness. Bingo. It hit me like a ton of bricks and next thing you know I was vomiting. I couldn’t sleep because I was so nauseous, sitting on the side of the bed, wrapped in sleeping bags. We were very high and as soon as the sun went down the temperature dropped quickly. I was stressed about being able to continue but I’m a very stubborn person so I wasn’t going to give up. I must say my bf was absolutely amazing that night and took the best care of me.

Eventually, I laid down and looked at the stars through our glass dome. They were incredible; unlike anything I had ever seen before. With zero light pollution, the sky was filled with millions of them. They were literally twinkling. And as our guide had mentioned, when you’re up in the mountains you can actually see that the stars are blue. Despite being extremely sick – for a minute the stars took all of it away and I was in awe.

**Note: My blood oxygen levels were checked and while they weren’t good, they weren’t horrible. It was deemed safe for me to stay there for the night.

Stay tuned for Day 2.