travel blog – Two Wild Tides

Exploring Newfoundland’s West Coast: Western Brook Pond Boat Tour

August 29, 2019 | Leave a Comment

This post is a long time coming! On Canada Day Weekend (yup, months ago) my friends and I took a road trip to the west coast of Newfoundland. We mostly just chilled in the RV, played lawn games, and had some drinks, but we did find the energy to venture up to Western Brook Pond to do the boat tour through the world-famous, breathtaking fjords. I was slightly under-prepared so, unfortunately, the photos are only iPhone photos!

We booked our tour through BonTours, which is the only tour company operating in Western Brook Pond. It was about $65 per person and we did not have to make a deposit to book our tour in advance. I would definitely suggest you book the tour ahead of time as it can be quite busy in the summer.

To access the tour, you’ll need to walk about 3km from the parking lot to the dock. It’s a relatively easy walk and takes about 30-45 minutes depending on your fitness level. I suggest bringing a bottle of water and a snack as the food at the tour facility is quite pricey.

The boat tour was fantastic. It’s about two hours long. We stood at the front of the boat the entire time so our views were fantastic. There is seating on top of the boat, at the back, and inside. The tour guide was great. He was friendly and informative. On the way back, he even played a few local tunes and everyone sang along.

There are so many remarkable facts about Western Brook Pond. What particularly stands out in my mind are the tales of huge chunks of the cliffs falling into the water, once even causing a 100-foot tsunami. The pond also carries extremely low levels of electrical charge compared to other bodies of water, meaning it is unable to support much marine life and therefore the water is pristine.

I know my pictures aren’t much. You might even be wondering after reading this post, “why would I bother going all that way for a boat tour in a little pond?”

Well, words and photos will NEVER demonstrate the magnitude of the fjords. To give you an idea, the CN Tower is 553 meters tall, and the tallest rock face in Western Brook Pond is 600 meters. It’ll blow your mind!

Have you been to Western Brook Pond? My goal is to snowmobile it next, and hopefully hike it someday. Let us know what you thought of the experience in the comments below or by reaching out on social media, @twowildtides!

Check out our other adventures on the west coast of Newfoundland:

St. Pierre & Miquelon: What To Do and What To See

August 22, 2019 | Leave a Comment

St. Pierre & Miquelon is a fascinating place. It is a slice of France off the continent of North America. More precisely, it is an archipelago (a group of islands), about 20 km off the southern coast of Newfoundland. St. Pierre is the smaller, more densely populated island, while Miquelon and Langlade are larger, more sparsely populated islands. St. Pierre and Miquelon can be reached by plane or ferry. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it out to Miquelon or Langlade on my trip there, so it’s on the list for next time. Keep reading to find out some of the best sites and attractions in St. Pierre that you won’t want to miss!

First thing’s first: grab a tourist map. The small ones offered by the tourism office are ideal (you can grab them on the ferry)– they helped us get around the island, find where to eat and grab a drink, and they have a handy list of all the popular historical sites, monuments, and museums.

The must-sees:

The Graveyard — St. Pierre’s Graveyard is rich with history and fascinating to stroll through. Some of the graves, most of which are above-ground, are quite unique and unusual. Learn the stories of the people who lived in St. Pierre and the tragedies that sometimes cost them their lives. The operation of the graveyard itself is also interesting to learn about, especially the events that caused the entire cemetary to be relocated several times. Be respectful and ask lots of questions.

War Memorials — St. Pierre has quite a few war memorials and monuments due to the many battles, revolutions, and wars France was part of throughout history. St. Pierre’s geographical distance did not immunize them from often being conscripted to fight and defend their country.

Point aux Canons Lighthouse & Fishing Village — Only a couple-minute stroll from the town centre, the lighthouse is worth wandering out to. Also, take a walk through the colourful fishing port and chat with locals about the island’s fishing heritage. Perhaps a good activity to do while you drink your morning coffee?

Arche Museum — Even if you’re not a museum person, I would still recommend checking this one out. It recounts the entire history of the island on easy-to-read interpretation boards and has the coolest artifacts to look at. You’ll even find a real guillotine on display– it really gave me the creeps. The architecture of the museum itself is very interesting. Don’t miss reading about the prohibition history and Al Capone’s role!

Strolling the streets of St. Pierre — This community is absolutely beautiful and for Newfoundlander’s, so reminiscent of home. Have a stroll through the narrow streets of St. Pierre and soak up the vibrant colours, unique shops, and foreign cars. Stop into a patisserie for a delicious snack and wander into the church– you’ll be surprised by the rough contrast of fine architecture and dilapidation.

Frenchi’s — I highly recommend booking Frenchi’s Tours in order to see the sights outside of the town centre. Steve, the main tour guide, was so friendly, knowledgeable, and absolutely hilarious. He spoke great English and could answer all of the questions we had about St. Pierre & Miquelon– and we had lots. We booked the ‘Island Tour’ which took us to all of the breathtaking viewpoints on the eastern side of the island.

You also HAVE to check out l’île aux Marins. Roughly translated to Mariner’s Island, this tiny island was once home to around 600 people. Today, the only inhabitants left are people with cabins and summer homes. On the island, you’ll find the immaculate remains of this community which have been transformed into interactive exhibits where visitors can roam free in and out of the buildings. Read all about it here!

Where to grab a drink and a bite to eat:

The restaurants we loved were Les Délices de Joséphine for coffee and lunch; Les P’tits Graviers and Le Feu de Braise for supper; and Crêperie du Vieux Port was our favourite because they had amazing French and Canadian food and unforgettable traditional crêpes.

We stopped by a few bars, but our absolute favourite was Le Rustique. It had the coolest vibes and it was definitely the busiest.

Let us know what you get up to on your trip to St. Pierre and Miquelon! What was your favourite thing to do or see there? What did we miss? Was there anything you’d do differently? Let us know by commenting below or commenting on our social media, @twowildtides!

Still planning your trip to St. Pierre and Miquelon? Check out our other article: Know Before You Go.

St. Pierre and Miquelon: L’Île-aux-Marins

August 19, 2019 | Leave a Comment

St. Pierre & Miquelon is a fascinating place. It is a slice of France off the continent of North America. More precisely, it is an archipelago (a group of islands), about 20 km off the southern coast of Newfoundland. St. Pierre is the smaller, more densely populated island, while Miquelon and Langlade are larger, more sparsely populated islands. St. Pierre and Miquelon can be reached by plane or ferry. When you arrive on the islands, particularly if you’re coming from Newfoundland, it won’t look that different. The architecture is similar and the rocky, jagged coastline is identical.

Part of the archipelago is L’Île-aux-Marins. Roughly translated to Mariner’s Island, L’Île-aux-Marins is a tiny island that was once inhabited by over 600 people. Today, the only inhabitants left are people with summer homes and cabins who visit the island from St. Pierre or elsewhere. On the island, you’ll find the immaculate remains of this community which have been transformed into interactive exhibits where visitors can roam free in and out of the buildings. It’ll honestly blow you away. It is so worth the trip and I highly recommend grabbing the little ferry out to the island if you ever find yourself in St. Pierre.

The small ferry leaves from St. Pierre (right next to the ferry terminal) several times per day and only costs a couple of dollars. Get there about half hour early to get yourself at the front of the line as sometimes they have to make two trips across if there are a lot of people.

When the ferry docks, you’ll see several buildings and paths. My suggestion is to choose a path that intrigues you and start walking. It’s a small island so you won’t miss anything and you won’t get lost. When standing on the wharf facing the island, to the right is the majority of the community that is now turned into heritage exhibits; to the left is mostly private summer homes and cabins, but there are a couple of sights down there you won’t want to miss, such as an old store house with an excellent collection of antiques and the remains of the shipwrecked Transpacific.

This place is honestly so fascinating. It was a commune until 1945 and had virtually no population by 1965. Now, it is essentially a ghost town that is FREE for you to wander. No worries of trespassing or getting caught. They want you to stroll the island, explore the buildings, and learn about the history. Stop and read the interpretive signs because they are chalked full of information and random facts that will surprise you.

The School / Archipélitude Museum

The Church — This was my favourite part. It was so eerie and desolate. We were blown away by the incredible European architecture and intricate religious items plopped on this tiny, ragged island in the North Atlantic Ocean. It was so unexpected.

The Cemetery

The Shop / Fisherman’s Home

The Jézéquel House is an old home that has been transformed into a sweet café with desserts and hot and cold drinks. Unfortunately we didn’t get to enjoy any sweets as we had to catch the ferry. Hopefully you’ll have more time to check it out!

On Airbnb or the St. Pierre tourism website, you can also find overnight accommodations on L’Île-aux-Marins in one of two old homes. We wish we had known this was an option before we planned our trip because staying on L’Île-aux-Marins would be such a cool experience! Let us know if you decide to stay out there all night– we’d love to hear your story.

Have you been to L’Île-aux-Marins? Did you like it? Let us know your thoughts in the comments or by reaching out on social media, @twowildtides! We love hearing from our awesome readers.

St. Pierre & Miquelon: Know Before You Go

August 5, 2019 | Leave a Comment

St. Pierre & Miquelon is a fascinating place. It is a slice of France off the continent of North America. More precisely, it is an archipelago (a group of islands), about 20 km off the southern coast of Newfoundland. St. Pierre is the smaller, more densely populated island, while Miquelon and Langlade are larger, more sparsely populated islands. St. Pierre and Miquelon can be reached by plane or ferry. When you arrive on the islands, particularly if you’re coming from Newfoundland, it won’t look that different. The architecture is similar and the rocky, jagged coastline is identical, however, the culture is vastly different. There are a few things you should know before you plan a trip there.

First, let’s chat about the practical stuff. The regular currency in St. Pierre & Miquelon is the Euro, however, CAD and USD are accepted pretty much everywhere, and Canadian debit and credit cards work for the most part, although you’ll want to double-check with your bank. The only place I found that did not accept currency other than Euros was the ferry. You need Euros if you want a snack on the way there or back! Prices in St. Pierre & Miquelon are very reasonable, despite the poor exchange rates right now. Expect to spend what you might in any other major Canadian city on hotels and meals. There is no Canadian cell coverage in St. Pierre & Miquelon that I know of, however, near the coast, you can pick up a weak signal from major towers such as Bell and Telus. There are a lot of hubs for free wifi, so gaining internet access shouldn’t be difficult. Finally, you will need a European travel adapter for outlets and plug-ins.

Next, let’s cover the meal times. You can enjoy a light breakfast, complete with decadent French pastries, at many restaurants and hotels. There are a few places that offer an American breakfast (bacon and eggs) and some crêperies if you’re craving something sweet in the morning. This information is hard to find online, but hotel staff are very knowledgeable and mostly bilingual and can point you in the right direction. Lunch is a whole other story. Almost every shop and restaurant in St. Pierre closes from 12:00-2:00, so there aren’t many places for lunch! UPDATE: A lovely reader from St. Pierre informed that there are restaurants opened during lunch hour. Yay! The whole time we were there, however, we ate lunch at Les Delices de Joséphine, which is open all day long and serves delicious sandwiches and quiches, as well as yummy desserts. You could also stop by a grocery store and keep food in your hotel room for lunchtime. We didn’t know we could go anywhere else. For supper, there are so many fine restaurants offering traditional, delectable French cuisine. My favourite restaurants for supper were Le Feu de Braise and the Crêperie (which offers far more than crêpes!), but keep in mind you’ll need reservations! Your hotel receptionist can help with that.

Now, we let’s discuss where to stay and how to get there. We stayed at the newest hotel in St. Pierre, the Hotel Jacques Cartier. It was clean, comfortable, and modern. Hotel rooms came with a coffee maker, an amazing rainfall shower, a minibar, huge windows, and extremely comfy beds. Breakfast is included in your stay and the staff were very helpful for booking tours and reservations. I highly recommend this hotel and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. You can get to St. Pierre by air or sea. The ferry leaves from Fortune, NL, which is along Newfoundland’s southern coast and is about 4-6 hours from St. John’s by car. Along the way, you can grab lunch at the Irving Big Stop in Goobies, get a photo by the moose, check out antique cars at Vernon’s, and catch glimpses of amazing NL coastline. You have to book the ferry in advance and it is a passenger-only ferry, but don’t worry, you won’t need your car in St. Pierre. You can also get to St. Pierre by air, and they have a gorgeous airport for such a small place. Travel between St. Pierre and the larger island, Miquelon, is also by ferry or plane.

Hotel Jacques Cartier
Hotel Jacques Cartier
Hotel Jacques Cartier

The weather in St. Pierre & Miquelon is similar to that of Newfoundland: unpredictable. It is an island floating in the North Atlantic, after all, so expect fog, wind, and rain. However, St. Pierre is full of surprises, and although the forecast called for rain and fog during our visit, we ended up with 25-degree weather and a sunburn! Prepare for both, especially in the summer.

The same view within 24 hours.
The same view within 24 hours.

Finally, I suggest you grab the little wallet-sized map from the ferry or ferry terminal. It is super handy and has so much information about where to eat, where to stay, and what historical sights to see. The map is easy to read when navigating by foot. And most importantly- it is free.

Please let me know if you have any more questions about visiting St. Pierre & Miquelon! I am happy to help and update this article as I hear from readers. We really appreciate hearing from you and we are so grateful for your support! Comment, email info@twowildtides.com, or reach out on social media @twowildtides.

happy travels,
char

Hotel Review: Iberostar Laguna Azul

May 16, 2019 | Leave a Comment

Last month I travelled to Varadero, Cuba, for a relaxing holiday with friends. Through a travel agent, we booked a seven-day all-inclusive stay at Iberostar Laguna Azul. Most Canadians love to run away somewhere sunny in the spring when school ends and the weather is still too damp and cold to really enjoy. I wanted to share with you my thoughts on this resort so you have all the information when you’re booking your next vacay.

First of all, let me say that at twowildtides, we freakin’ love Cuba. It is a beautiful country with the kindest people and fascinating history. The sun is hot, the sand is soft, and the culture is vibrant. Check out our other articles about Cuba:

Next, I have to stress the value of travelling all-inclusive. If you’re less interested in getting the most out of a new culture and more interested in soaking up some rays, eating delicious food, and sipping Piña Coladas all day, all-inclusive is the way to go. Through companies like Sunwing, West Jet, and Air Canada, either with a travel agent or on your own (be careful with vacation sites), you can buy vacation packages that include airfare, bus transfers, hotel stays, food, and alcohol all in one payment. Prices can range from $1000+ depending on the quality of the resort and where you are travelling from, but the deal is usually better than booking everything separately and paying for drinks and meals at your destination. If you still want to have cultural and/or adventure experiences, you can book day-long excursions that leave right from your hotel.

With all of that out of the way, let’s talk about the resort: Iberostar Laguna Azul. Built in 2009, this hotel is one of the older ones in Varadero. It has over 800 rooms, but the layout is relatively small, letting you walk anywhere on the resort in a reasonable amount of time without needing a golf cart. Despite having so many rooms, it doesn’t feel crammed in the pool area or on the beach even when the hotel is at capacity. There are three pool areas (two quiet and one with more of a party vibe), plenty of bars, a gorgeous beach, a snack restaurant/lunch buffet, the main buffet restaurant which serves three meals per day, and several a la carte restaurants. For a seven-day stay, you have three a la carte suppers included.

When we arrived, we were checked in to a ground-level room despite having requested an upper floor with a balcony. We wouldn’t have complained, however, this room also did not have a safe and the patio door didn’t lock very securely. The bathroom door was also broken, the mirror was somewhat rusty, and the toilet didn’t work very well. It wasn’t dirty, but you could tell that the room was old and hadn’t been updated or refreshed in quite some time. The next morning, reception was able to put us in a new room and luckily, we had a much better view and the room was on a higher floor. The new room (pictured above) was much nicer. It felt cleaner, brighter, and everything (mostly) worked. Our bathroom door still didn’t close and the tub took hours to drain, but we had a safe for our valuables and a securely locking door. Unfortunately, our mini fridge was only occasionally restocked, and although we were given clean towels every day or so, the cleaning staff only made our bed once throughout the whole time we were there and the tub wasn’t cleaned at all.

I still stand by my statement that the rooms at this hotel are very dated. For me, this is not a big deal, especially considering how inexpensive the vacation actually was. And I don’t need a fancy room to have fun, and that’s what we were there for. It’s really up to you: are you looking for a modern, luxurious hotel room experience? If so, this probably isn’t your place.

The last thing about the rooms at Laguna Azul is a pretty serious complaint: there are no chains on the doors, and the deadbolt is unlocked by the key card. Like most hotels, when you shut the door, it automatically locks and can be opened using a key card. Although in most hotels, there is a deadbolt lock which can only be locked and unlocked from inside the room. In this hotel, the key cards unlock both the deadbolt and regular lock, and without a chain, anyone with a key can come in at any time. It doesn’t feel very secure when you know that during the night any staff member (or guest who may get a hold of your key) could come in while you’re sleeping. We’re hearing more and more stories about hotel room break-ins and hotels should be helping their guests be as safe and secure as possible by providing working deadbolts or door chains. (It wasn’t just our room– it was our first room, second room, and our friends’ room, leading us to assume that it’s like this in all rooms.)

We spent most of our time in the main pool area. It was large with lots of pool chairs around and most importantly, it had a swim-up bar. There were lots of guests around having fun and consistent activities hosted by staff throughout the day. I’d give it 5 stars without hesitating. Both buffets are nearby if you want to grab a snack and you don’t have to walk far at all for a bathroom. No complaints here.

Same goes for the beach. It’s very big, the sand is soft, the water is clear, there is a bar, and there are lots of chairs to flake out on. There are fun activities also hosted on the beach throughout the day by entertainment staff, such as sports and dance lessons. Again, I’d give the beach a 5-star rating.

At both the pool and bar there are staff members walking around serving drinks from your beach chair which is lovely. Although, I will point out that this service, as well as service at any bar on the resort, is quite slow. We waited up to 30 minutes for drinks at some points. It was like this at the pool, the beach, and in the lobby. The theatre bar and cigar bar were probably the quickest. It seemed like the hotel may have been understaffed as they didn’t have many people working the bars, which created the extremely long waits for drinks. Pro tip: the cigar bar (near the washrooms in the lobby) is hardly ever busy so you can get immediate service from friendly staff.

Speaking of the lobby, it is quite lovely. The staff at reception (and throughout the entire resort) are amazing. They were all so kind, friendly, and as helpful as possible. In the lobby area, there is a bar, tables and chairs for lounging, wifi (1 CUC per hour), washrooms, guest services, vacation reps, cigar bar, gift shops, and a game room. The only downside to the lobby is that you’re allowed to smoke in there, which gives it a dingy smell. Nonetheless, we spent many evenings in the lobby drinking cocktails and playing cards and many mornings drinking coffee and checking the Internet.

Let’s talk about food: overall, I was impressed. At every meal, the food was tasty, flavorful, and well-cooked. Unfortunately, the buffets have absolutely no variety. Every day, at basically every meal, they provide the same options. No matter how good food is, nobody wants to eat the same thing three times per day for seven days straight! The a la carte restaurants were quite good. I tried the Japanese, Italian, and steakhouse. The food was delicious and the options were pleasing.

Finally, I’ll mention the nightlife. Of all the resorts I’ve stayed at, this one had the best nightlife. The theatre and disco were bopping every single night. There were lots of people, young and old, excited to party and let loose. The hotel staff kept people pumped up throughout the evening. Lots of fun all around. If you’re looking for a party, this resort will be great for you.

Overall, I had a great vacation. Holidays are what you make them. You can choose to let the little things get you down or you can make the best of it and have fun anyway. That’s what we did. It was worth our time and money. The rooms could definitely use updating, the service could be quicker, and they could use more variety in their food, but the beach and pool are gorgeous, the restaurants were lovely and the food tasty, and the nightlife and entertainment are on point.

If you have any more questions about this resort I’d be more than happy to answer them. Reach out to us on Instagram or Facebook (@twowildtides) or email me at char@twowildtides.com. I love hearing from our readers and I am glad to help in any way I can!