…in Alberta – Two Wild Tides

Adventures in the Rocky Mountains: Camping at Two Jack Lake in Banff, AB

October 19, 2020 | Leave a Comment

I cannot wait to tell you about this campground in Banff National Park. It ticks all the boxes. I even have a specific site recommendation for you so you’re guaranteed a perfect experience. Keep reading!

Two Jack Lakeside Campground is located about 15 minutes from the Town of Banff and very nearby Lake Minnewanka in Banff National Park. Two Jack Lakeside Campground should not be mixed up with the main Two Jack campground; the Lakeside campground is just that– lakeside.

The campground only has 23 sites and a few O’Tentiks. It is small, private, and absolutely serene. It has centrally-located bathrooms, showers, and a kitchen (the kitchen is currently closed due to Covid-19) that are only a short walk from every campsite. The sites have fire-pits and while we were there, firewood was free.

Any site at Two Jack Lakeside Campground will be wonderful due to the small size of the grounds, however, for the best experience, choose site #42 or #44. They are located right on the shore of Two Jack Lake and have a spectacular view of the lake and surrounding mountains.

The lakeside has a small beach area which is perfect for picnics, swimming (although it is cold!), and launching your canoes, kayaks, and paddleboards.

Two Jack Lakeside Campground is in a great location relative to the town of Banff. It is far enough away that there is limited traffic noise, but close enough that you can scoot in for a walk, tour, or meal with ease. We went into town several times, twice for meals and once for a tour that didn’t happen…

On our first day in Banff, it was 26 degrees and sunny. We enjoyed drinks and appetizers from the best rooftop in Banff that we stumbled on by accident. The Rose & Crown was hidden by scaffolding from ongoing exterior renovations and there was no lineup to attest to its excellent location and menu. Since we couldn’t get in to any of the more popular restaurants without a reservation (i.e. Grizzly House, Park Distillery, Balkan), we took a chance on the Rose & Crown. It really paid off. (The caesar was amazing.)

On our second night, we visited Banff Ave Brewing Co. The beer was amazing, the ‘ninja’ was amazing, our appetizers were amazing, Mack’s steak was amazing, and the atmosphere was amazing. But, my bison burger was awful and it made me feel sick. Definitely visit Banff Ave Brewing, but maybe pass on the bison burger.

Finally, on our third and final day, we drove back into Banff from Two Jack Lakeside campground for a trip up the Sulphur Mountain Gondola. Remember how it was 26 degrees on our first day? Well, it was -1 degree and snowing on our last day. The weather can change quickly and drastically in the mountains– and while it makes a good story, do not take this for granted. There was zero visibility at the top of the mountain and we could reschedule our tickets, so we passed. I had done the gondola once before, but Mack hadn’t, so it’s too bad he missed it. Hopefully we get to go to Banff again soon so he can have this cool experience.

Have you ever been camping in Banff? Where did you stay? Let us know in the comments!

Happy adventures,
char

Adventures in the Rocky Mountains: Hiking to the Lake Agnes Tea House

October 12, 2020 | Leave a Comment

Way back in 2016, around the same time twowildtides began, I stumbled on an Instagram post about the Lake Agnes Tea House. I had a notebook of ideas for articles and places I wanted to go. The Lake Agnes Tea House was always at the top of that list. Last month, I made it happen. And I felt the thrill of crossing something really important off a bucket list– a feeling that is pretty rare during pandemic-times.

The Lake Agnes Tea House can only be accessed on foot or by horseback. The trail leaves from the shore of Lake Louise, right in front of the Chateau Fairmont Lake Louise. I had also never seen Lake Louise before, so on top of all my excitement about the Tea House, I had the wonderful experience of laying my eyes on those bright blue waters for the very first time. Not even the postcards do this place justice.

As you are probably aware, Lake Louise is a major tourist destination. Millions of people per year visit the lake. Parking is crazy and you should arrive early to get a spot (although we did luck into one just before noon, so it is possible). And while I certainly don’t mean to take away from the romance and wonder of Lake Louise, it is worth noting just how busy it is there. The canoes, for example, cost $115 + tax per half-hour and $125 + tax per hour, and the line-up was enormous. The images below are meant to be a heads-up, not a deterrent.

Keep in mind that right now there are no international tourists because of Covid-19.

Let’s get to the hike:

As I mentioned, the trailhead is on the shore of the lake. If you’re looking out over the lake, it will be to your right. There is a sign marking the trail.

The trail involves what I would describe as a medium-grade, steady incline. I definitely felt the burn in my legs, but didn’t find myself getting too winded. There were many older individuals and young families enjoying the hike. Do what feels safe for you. The trail is well-beaten and not treacherous, although there are some areas with steep drops along the sides of the trail. It is an out-and-back trail, so you’ll be steadily descending on your way back. The scenery is spectacular.

About three-quarters of the way up, you’ll find Mirror Lake and The Beehive. There is a separate, longer trail you can take to hike The Beehive, which I hope to do in the future. Can you guess why this mountain is called The Beehive?

Just before you reach the top, there is a small waterfall and lookout point at the base of the trail’s only set of stairs- these stairs are your last push before the Tea House.

The total ascent was about 400 m over 3.5 km, which we tackled in about 50 minutes.

Lake Agnes and the Tea House was even better than I imagined. A log cabin on a lake in the mountains with a breathtaking view. Honestly, if it started to snow, it would have been material for a Hallmark movie. It was busy, but we lucked into an outdoor table with another couple from Ontario, who were celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary. We enjoyed tea (of course) and a delicious peanut butter bar. The menu is extensive and very fairly priced. Patrons are responsible to bring their own garbage down from the mountain. We learned that the staff, who are mainly young people, have bunks near the Tea House where they live for a few days at a time. So cool!

I didn’t want to leave. I could have stayed there all day. Not kidding.

But the sky clouded over and the temperature dropped, so after about an hour and a half at the top, we headed back down. The descent took about 40 minutes.

On our way down from Lake Louise, we did a quick stop into Moraine Lake, another well-known, picturesque, bright blue lake. Definitely worth the time and the drive. I’d recommend as a top-notch picnic destination.

Have you hiked to the Lake Agnes Tea House? What other must-sees are there for us in the Canadian Rocky Mountains? Leave a comment!

Adventures in the Rocky Mountains: A Weekend in Valemount, BC

October 5, 2020 | Leave a Comment

While I still haven’t made it to Canada’s West Coast to dip my toes in the Pacific Ocean, I’ve finally made it to our western-most province: British Columbia. Valemount, BC is a small town on the edge of Jasper National Park at the base of the Rocky Mountains. It is a hub for hikers, tourists, mountain bikers, and snowmobilers. It makes a great home-base for folks who wish to take in much of what the Rockies have to offer.

We set up camp at Canoe River Campground, just a few minutes outside of town. Compared to our recent trip to Drumheller, the campsites were much more private, far more affordable, and had breathtaking views. The washrooms were clean and the service was friendly. Since leaving Newfoundland, this is by far the nicest campground I have stayed at. Highly recommend!

However, the mosquitos were horrible. The absolute worst I have ever experienced! Mack and I could hardly enjoy our evenings at the site as the flies were relentless, even with bug spray. We had to huddle in the tent the entire time and I still got more bites than I ever have in my life. Although I understand that this is just an inconvenience all campers have to deal with, I am open to any and all suggestions to keep those pests away next time!

About 15 minutes outside Valemount on Highway 16 lies Mount Robson Provincial Park. Mount Robson, captured in the images above, is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies at 12,972 feet. I was stoked to explore the trails around the base of the mountain– but Covid-19 had other plans.

At the time, the park was limiting guest access to Kinney Lake and Berg Lake Trails on a first-come, first-serve basis. Unfortunately, we didn’t get our passes on time and could not get access to the trails. Another time.

We accepted defeat and paused to soak in the glorious view. We got our pictures, bought some postcards, and got a move on. The kind park attendant we spoke to recommended a few short trails that led to waterfalls. Both trails are immediately off Highway 16 near Mount Robson.

Overlander Falls, featured in the two pictures above, is a small but powerful waterfall. It is only a 10-minute walk from the highway.

Rearguard Falls, which I didn’t get a good picture of, is an even shorter walk from the highway. It is also worth venturing down if you have the time. There is a riverbank just up from the falls that makes a great photo op and is also the prime stop to take a quick dip in the mighty Fraser River. I wasn’t brave enough, but Mack was! Don’t stay in too long, it’s extremely cold as it is almost purely fed by glacier runoff and snow melt.

Because we missed out on the Kinney Lake Trail, we needed to find somewhere to scratch our hiking itch. We were lucky to find the Swift Creek Trail, located directly within the town of Valemount. Although the trail isn’t well marketed (or gets lost amidst the more hyped trails in the area) it is well maintained and well worth your time.

Swift Creek Trail is a 10-kilometre loop that ascends to a maximum elevation of about 500 feet. It is challenging at points. It took us about 4 hours and we felt so great afterwards. The scenery was serene and the view was remarkable. Afterwards, we treated ourselves to well-deserved beers at Three Ranges Brewing Company.

On the trip back, Mack woke me up from my nap. There were some elk grazing on the side of the highway in Jasper National Park and he knew I’d want to take pictures. A huge thanks to Mack for being so considerate because I’m pretty proud of these shots.

I am so grateful that the BC border is only a five-hour drive from my doorstep. Since moving to the mainland of Canada, the country feels so accessible! I’ll always love Newfoundland, it is my home; but there is such a freedom in being off the island.

A Land Before Time: Exploring Drumheller, Alberta

September 21, 2020 | Leave a Comment

It’s the year of the staycation– this is nothing new to us at twowildtides. We love being tourists in our own province, and now that I am living in a new province, I have lots more to explore.

Drumheller is a fascinating place. It’s a town in the Canadian badlands, located in east-central Alberta, only about an hour outside Calgary. As you drive across what seems like neverending prairies along Highway 56 South, the land suddenly gives way and you find yourself with high cliffs on either side of you. The change in terrain happens so quickly, it’s almost disorienting. It’s like you’re on Mars.

We decided to camp out for the weekend and visited two different campsites with our small, 2-person tent. The first night, we stayed at Hoodoos RV Park and Campground. While the grounds were tidy and the stay went smoothly, it offers zero privacy and not much to look at. It’d be a great campsite for many tourists as it is affordable and close to many landmarks, but it just wasn’t our style. On the second night, we stayed at River Grove Campground, right in the middle of town. This site was much nicer, offered more privacy, had excellent washrooms, and had a prime location, but you’ll pay a slightly higher price. I recommend River Grove over Hoodoos.

We arrived late Friday night, so we were up bright and early Saturday morning anticipating a jam-packed day. We started off with coffee and a satisfyingly greasy breakfast at WHIFS Flapjack House. Then we headed to Horseshoe Canyon just outside of town.

Horseshoe Canyon was so fun to hike as there are no barricades and visitors are free to roam off the trails. We were fascinated by the desert landscape and spent almost two hours in the blistering sun climbing over boulders and hills, admiring the wildflowers, and spotting rock stacks created by past hikers.

The coolest part about Horseshoe Canyon? Cacti! It’s a pretty stark difference from the evergreen forests we’re used to in Canada.

After we left Horseshoe Canyon, we stopped by our campsite to rehydrate and eat a packed lunch, then we headed about 15-minutes outside of town to Hoodoos Provincial Park. What’s a hoodoo, you ask? It’s a natural rock formation, but I’ll let the pictures explain the rest.

Saturday night, we strolled from our campground to Valley Brewing and enjoyed some flights of beers then grabbed a pizza at a small joint in Drumheller’s cute downtown area. I definitely suggest you pop in some of the little shops and boutiques downtown, there are lots of sweet finds! It’s also worth your time to do the most mega-touristy experience the town has to offer– climb into the mouth of the World’s Tallest Dinosaur. (You can catch me doing this in our Alberta Video Diary from four years ago! I also visited the Royal Tyrell Museum in this video, an experience we couldn’t enjoy during our recent trip due to the Covid-19 pandemic).

Although these days the main industry is likely tourism, Drumheller was a coal-mining boomtown. So before we hit the highway on Sunday, we visited the Atlas Coal Mine– the last mine of it’s kind in the world.

The coal mine was a fascinating experience especially for a history buff. For true crime/disaster story fanatics (what’s up Murderinos?) there are really interesting story boards to read. In normal times (i.e. pre-Covid) you can even climb the tipple and venture inside the mine.

Have you been to Drumheller? What did you do there? Comment below!

Adventures in the Rocky Mountains: A Weekend in Jasper National Park

September 14, 2020 | Leave a Comment

A few weeks ago, my partner and I headed out to Jasper National Park for an impromptu weekend in the mountains. I had been to the Rockies once before (Banff, 4 years ago), but Mack had never been. We stayed at an Airbnb in Hinton, about 45 minutes east of the town of Jasper, because it is much more affordable. Hinton is actually a really nice community, so I would recommend staying there if you’re okay with the drive into Jasper.

We didn’t do much planning for this trip, mostly because we just wanted to soak in the sights at this legendary place, rather than be exhausted from a jam-packed schedule.

In the age of Covid-19, there are restrictions and closures to be aware of. As of July 1st 2020, the Miette hot springs were closed. We wanted to hike the Sulphur Skyline Trail, however, the trailhead is 16 km up the same road as the hot springs and the whole road is closed to prevent tourists from getting near the pools. So, this hike is inaccessible unless you want to walk 16 km for an 8 km hike.

We did some strolling around on easy walking/hiking trails; mainly just staring in awe at the jutting and breathtaking skyline. One underrated area for viewpoints/photo-ops, right off the main highway, is called Jasper House. It’s a short walk from the road to the banks of the Athabasca River. This would make a good picnic spot. Punchbowl Falls, right at the base of the road to the Miette hot springs, is another good picnic/lookout spot that we found.

On Saturday evening, we had a delicious meal and some refreshing beers at the Jasper Brewing Company, right on main street Jasper. I tried elk meatloaf– I’m drooling just thinking about it. We spent the rest of the evening popping in and out of some touristy gift shops and eating ice cream cones.

Sunday morning, we ‘stumbled’ on the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge (we knew it existed but had no idea where we were when we first pulled up). The lake at the Lodge is STUNNING. It is one of your classic, electric blue, picture-perfect Rocky Mountain lakes. I was bubbling with excitement from being there. We decided last-minute (as we did with everything that weekend) to pop inside for brunch. I had one of the best caesars of my life and the fish tacos were so tasty. I will be going back there, without a doubt.

Our impromptu weekend in Jasper couldn’t have been better and I can’t wait to explore there some more so I can write about it here on the blog for you folks.